What concerns me is that my radiator will need to dissipate more heat and I feel that either the radiator needs enlarging or I need to upgrade my cooling fans to move more air, there are some amazing aftermarket cooling fans out there.ĭoes anyone have any experience with Evans Coolant? What's not to like? I have always been a Dexcool fan but the benefits of this coolant are hard to overlook. > While it is expensive at first, it is a lifetime coolant not needing to be flushed every 2 years for green and every 5 years for Dexcool > Because more heat is moved away, the aluminum block material at the head bolts is cooler > Because there is no water, the potential for galvanic corrosion is greatly minimized > Because it doesn't boil, less pressure is built up in the cooling system, lessening the stress on seals, radiator end tanks and coolant tank, > A boiling point of 375 degrees, will improve heat transfer away from wet cylinder sleeves and head bolt area more efficiently, coolant will boil in this area adjacent to the combustion chamber impeding the heat transfer causing this area to cool poorly, How much EVANS efficiency affects the system I can't be exact on as clearly I am pushing the limits so regular coolant may not buy me anything.Ī high flow T-Stat and higher flow water pump would be a plus, but, I don't know of anyone who makes them for the 5.9 Cummins.I have done a few searches but didn't turn up anything on Evans Coolant. Again the Stock HO tune is fine with EVANS foot to the floor at the top of 4th gear. However I am at the limits of the cooling system with the Smarty Tune, hot AZ weather, and reduced ability of EVANS to move heat with the stock water pump and T-Stat. Synthetic oil would buy me more temperature headroom. I do worry about the limits of engine oil as oil failure from getting too hot will scuff a piston. Note I also have a BB coolant cooled turbo center section adding heat to the system now. As it's a zero PSI system the last thing I am worried about is the coolant boiling over: This is an advantage to EVANS. I have seen 237 ECT once before backing off and it's using most of the OEM temp gauge. When I throw the SMARTY tunes at it and push 1250-1300 EGT the ECT starts to climb on grades at the top of 4th gear (3000 RPM ~50 MPH) where I complain about the fan belt possibly slipping. The OEM temp gauge doesn't pass the right edge of the center 200 number. Towing a 27' AF 5th wheel near the GCWR for the truck, aerodynamics of a skyscraper, 100-121 degrees out, and good grades of at least 4-10% that go on for miles. I carry an extra gallon of it.ħ) It's hygroscopic like brake fluid so keep the system and containers closed as much as possible. Use distilled water in an emergency as you can boil it off to recover your EVANS. I can tell the engine blowby and the EVANS smell after shutdown.Ħ) Availability. More info here.Ĥ) It expands more than water so leave the expansion tank nearly empty.ĥ) Smell - it has an odor to it especially when new. Best example is pure water cools better than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.ģ) You can't use a high watt density block heater, aka the one we got in the 5.9, as it can coke the coolant. Consider a Zero PSI Evans system isn't going to spray like the OEM 16 PSI system.Ģ) Reduced cooling ability. Ethylene glycol has a flash point of 232 deg F so if heated to that temp it becomes flammable in the context of an escaping spray of coolant into an engine fire environment. I will not have to change the EVANS out for the lifetime of the engine.ġ) Flammability is a concern often brought up although most coolants except pure water will burn. You would be amazed at the amount of steam coming out of a loaded engine into the radiator requiring cooling below 212 degrees to condense even as an antifreeze mix. Evans doesn't vaporize in the engine leaving pockets of steam with no cooling on engine hot spots or causing erosion from the boiling. As a DD it works well and the zero PSI is a plus in my book having blown heater cores up with the scalding coolant landing on passenger's feet. I have a zero PSI radiator cap mod (hole drilled in it) so the stress on the heater core and hoses are near zero. I use it since they had the engine out of my 2003 for a rebuild and the engine was "Dry" going back in.
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